Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Natural Pearl
I didn’t think it was too far fetched to get engaged without knowing it. I actually worried this might somehow happen- it kind of did to another volunteer in real life. So that’s a story to tell sometime. As for me I did play a couple April fools jokes today. I gave an April fool’s quiz in Chemistry. It had very difficult questions but in the format of what we had been studying (Lewis Dot Structures and Molecular Shapes). The directions included reading through the whole quiz. Of course, the last line mentioned to “Raise your hand silently to ask a question with only your name written at the top to receive an extra credit point and the real quiz.” Well 29 out of 31 students got it. 2 were fooled! One kept getting frustrated as he would raise his hand and say, “Ms. Steph, this is too hard. You didn’t teach this.” Then, he would turn his paper over and start drawing. I proceeded to turn his paper back over and tell him to read the directions. This probably happened at least 6 times. Meanwhile giggles came from the other students and he still had no clue. Another student found the first quiz “fun” since the problems were intense. This is the same student that inquired about the string theory earlier in the year, a theory related to advanced quantum physics. Needless to say, both laughed a slightly frustrated laugh when I pointed it out to them with a little more hints.
The students are always inquiring about the faculty’s “boyfriends” or “girlfriends.” They make up that certain individuals are dating, even though nobody is, but of course they enjoy starting drama. So I asked if they wanted to see a picture of my fiancée and I told them he proposed yesterday, pointing out that it would have been 2 days before April Fool’s. (I picked someone who is attractive and already known as “a friend of mine” by the students.) They screamed, ran up to my desk and started railroading me with questions. I guessed I tested my lying skills because only a couple thought it was actually an April Fool’s joke. The other’s were asking if they could go to the wedding and what was the date. The best line of the day came when one student asked for a copy of his picture. My response was, “No, I’m not giving you a picture so you can idolize my fiancée!” Now, even the ones who thought I might be fibbing turned the corner. The classes ended with girls begging to have a picture of him and actually one girl stealing the picture and running out of class with it. She eventually returned it and then I quietly whispered in her ear, “April Fool’s!” She stomped her foot and said, “Can I still have his picture?” Oh, high school students.
I hope you all had some innocent fun as well this April Fool’s….Don’t worry I am not going to marry a Micronesian T (well probably….hehe). Miss you. Peace
-Steph
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Random thoughts
Hello everyone! I have been trying to complete this blog for weeks now, and it seems that every time I come back to it I have to edit it because it is outdated, so sorry about the delay. Enjoy!
…
Teaching and grading student work can be tedious at times, but every once and a while, students provide some comic relief to keep you going. I thought I would share some with you. The first response was a reflection of a junior after being introduced to the nuclear bomb testing that took place in the Marshall Islands post-WW2. The second response was by a sophomore on a recent Biology test.
“I think that the U.S. used propaganda to make the people of Bikini agree with them and leave their island. For the U.S. president, I can’t believe that he agreed to something like that. I wonder how he would feel if Micronesians came to the White House and told him to leave so they could test a black magic that they just came up with. I don’t think he would like it one bit.” -junior
Extra Credit: “What is a carcinogen?” (1 point)
“I think its that thing you know with the connecting that makes the thing and the thing and is caused by something or someone somewhere. Something like that. Or its that product in cigarettes, or nicotine.” -sophomore
I hope that brought a smile to your face. If not, maybe such is appreciated more once you have already read 30 reflections!
As for me, I’m doing well. I was lucky to have escaped the bacterial infection that about half the staff at Xavier is suffering right now from an iffy batch of tuba, a sweet drink typically made in Yap out of the sap of a coconut. Let’s just say, bowel movement has been a pretty open conversation among the staff recently. We just wrapped up the first half of the third quarter (Can you believe it?!). and the annual Catholic School’s Week. We celebrated Mass and games with the other 2 Catholic schools on island on Monday, held an all-school spelling bee on Tuesday, had a student exchange with the other schools on Wednesday, had a Math Competition on Thursday, and an Open Mic event on Friday! Are you tired yet? Because I am! Among all of that, we squeezed in volleyball try-outs somewhere. I am really excited to be coaching the girl’s team. We have some excellent talent, even though few of the players have ever had any formal training. Although the “season” is a mere 3.5 weeks, I am excited to be able to lead such with the girls and am contemplating starting a club to run year-round next year. Last Wednesday was our first game, and we won!! Unlike what I am used to at home, the girls expect that everyone on the team will play, including the starting players. It makes my job easy- the play is competitive, but the players on the team treat one another as team members. Geh, who would have thought?
A lot has happened since New Years. A couple weekends ago I had the opportunity to go to Fefan, another island within the Chuuk lagoon, to help administer the Xavier entrance exam to middle school students. Although I was only in Fefan for about 24 hours, I took a lot of insight from my experience there. Fefan is one of the less developed islands in the lagoon with no public power. Living in Chuuk is a constant learning experience for me, and being in Fefan gave me a small chance to get away from the chaos and think. Recently I have found myself thinking often about the differing cross-cultural perceptions of needs and wants. I have always tried to be an open-minded individual, craving to learn about other people’s experiences elsewhere. And while I may be very familiar with western, specifically American, culture, I know that I am still very naïve to life elsewhere. It is one thing to know the fact that people live in poverty- but to understand and conceptualize what it actually means to live in poverty is a totally different story, especially when you consider that the story or profile of “poverty” changes based on where you are.
Growing up, I repeatedly heard the statement, “Be grateful that you have a roof over your head, clothes on your back, and food on your plate.” And while that statement sounds simple, now I feel as if I never really understood it. Or, at least, I understand it differently now. It is simple for a reason. What one needs is simple. Growing up, I slept on a comfortable bed with warm sheets. When I turned 12, I was even granted my own room. And while my family complained that my father would always somehow sneak to lower the AC or turn off the TV in the 5 minutes you happened to be going to the bathroom, I lived in a temperature-controlled house with electronic entertainment. We had a stove, oven, microwave, refrigerator, and freezer. I had a computer to complete my schoolwork, a reliable and technologically up-to-date internet connection, and 24-hour power. I had access to a car when I wanted or needed to get somewhere. My closet and drawers were always filled with enough clothes. I had my own clothes. My family’s pantry was always stocked. My family ate at a table with everyone sitting on chairs. Our house had running and heated water and multiple toilets and showers. If something broke, we usually had it fixed in a timely manner. I attended private school and there was never a thought in my mind after my high school graduation to pursue anything other than college. I went to the doctor at least once a year and got glasses for my minimal nearsightedness. I have held at least one job throughout the year since I turned sixteen and I often felt shafted when I did not receive a raise. Growing up among middle class Americans, my story was not unique.
In visiting my host family down in Penia (where I play volleyball), I have begun to understand a little more about what home life is like here. In Chuuk, a microwave holds a luxury tax. A typical person sleeps on a local mat made of dried coconut leaves and maybe a thin pad because a bed is considered expensive. Family members can all sleep together in a single room, which the next day is the living space for everyone (That’s easy when you don’t have a heavy bed to move). Chairs, mostly plastic, are reserved for the eldest or the “guest.” Most locals do not have ovens- stoves consist of a metal grate put on top of a couple of rocks with a small fire burning underneath. Most bathrooms are holes in the ground. Most showers come from buckets, which to people here is not even “cold” because the concept of heated shower water is pretty much confined to hotels. Some may have a washing machine, but it is only useful when the island grants public power. Schools function on varying levels, from poor to high. The best education seems to remain in the hands of few families. Health care is coin toss- some get it, some do not. Many individuals with vision problems just deal with it and learn to compensate. Finding employment is difficult and therefore, many open their own small businesses to cover costs. And since work is hard to find, some are forced to stick with their jobs even if it means being offered no raise after more than a decade or two of work.
I do not say this to arouse pity or depressed feelings. My local friends for the most part seem content. Their life is what they know and are comfortable with. There are always behind-the-scenes social problems that result in domestic violence, alcoholism, health problems, etc., but the people’s perceptions of what one needs are different. I continue to be taken aback by the ingenuity and resilience of the people I have met here. For as much as I can “teach” them, they teach me as well; their lessons may be more disguised and not straight from a text. Rather, I say all of this to convey my observations because I know that I did not realize some of this six months ago. I reckon it would take far beyond two years, if ever, to fully understand another’s reality because of how deeply imprinted my own upbringing is. Even in Chuuk, I still live in luxury. I have my own room. I have my own bed. I have a laptop, camera, mp3 player, access to an internet connection, refrigerator, microwave, and above all, if I so desired I could pick up everything and head back to my comfortable home in the states. For me, one of my father’s favorite adages holds new meaning now.
In college I often mentioned that I wanted to spend a day just sitting on a street corner in downtown D.C. watching people as they went about their business. While studying sociology out of a textbook has never thrilled me, I have always been observant and entertained by learning about others. And while I am not quite on a street corner in D.C., when you don’t know how to contribute to the language much, you end up just sitting, listening, and watching. I have noticed a significant shift in the way people treat me now around Penia. In my first months here, it was common for me to run or walk by and get laughed at. I just went with it and kept a smile on my face. I was clueless to what was being said and had been told that laughing was a typical reaction by the people here to being uncomfortable or not knowing what to say. Recently, that doesn’t happen so much anymore. People just say hello now and ask me how I am doing and where I am going. Now I can sit down with them for hours and laugh with them, even if little is actually being said. When I do sit down, I am not always the center of attention now. My host mom told me a couple weeks ago that she told her sons that if they heard anyone pestering me that they have to tell them to stop because I am their “auntie” now. The concept of family in Chuukese culture is very strong and provides one’s identity and security.
For the first time last week, a host-cousin of mine (knowing I teach science at Xavier) asked if I could help him with his homework. I of course said sure so he brought out his textbook. Within three minutes of tutoring him, about 12 other people on the family’s compound had circled around us to see and hear what was going on, including a 4 year old girl and a grandmother. I typically draw attention around the compound being a “guest,” but it was fascinating to me how curious everyone was once a textbook came out.
A similar event occurred a couple days later on Xavier’s campus. Occasionally the sons of the maintenance workers will come and hang out around campus. One day two boys probably between the ages of 8 and 10 were hanging around sifting through the pages of the couple of children’s books we have acquired to help with tutoring Sapuk Elementary. It was obvious by the way in which they were turning the pages that they were not actually reading the books. I was in no rush to get anywhere so I crotched down beside one of them and began reading. As I read, I dragged my finger underneath each word I was reading. The boy was quickly enthralled, trying to follow along and turn the pages when I finished reading. I noticed that although his friend was on the other side of the room, I quickly caught his attention also and he walked over and sat beside us so he could also follow along. These are small incidents, but they just emphasize how kids anywhere crave to learn, regardless of the functioning levels of their public schools. Sapuk elementary is one of the lowest-functioning public elementary schools on Weno. They have been attempting to meet half days this year, but it does not always work for many reasons, one principal reason being that the staff do not always show up and therefore the kids also stop showing up. Something that I wanted to do within weeks of stepping foot on Weno was to improve the situation at Sapuk (if anyone remembers that print out of Micronesian schools I showed people before I left, Sapuk was the photo where the kids sat on the ground in front of small tables in a water-filled classroom). This semester we have managed to set up at tutoring program between Xavier and Sapuk. Every morning for about 45 minutes, 10 Xavier students go down to the elementary school and tutor the students in English. The first day the turnout was low, but within a week we had about 20 students per class showing up. Although it is a short time each day, hopefully it will have positive effects as the Sapuk students continue to show up.
…
A couple weekends ago was the annual “Dance Night,” and, in case you didn’t already know, it’s a big deal. I say that somewhat sarcastically, but also seriously. The enthusiasm of the students here is often over-the-top; I often find myself laughing at the pure innocence and ridiculousness to which some of the students here become so wrapped up in the excitement of an “event.” But at the same time, such enthusiasm is beautiful, awesome, and special. It makes me recognize how many opportunities I had growing up. Maybe an example would be best used to explain this. At my high school, there were at least 3 major dances throughout the school year. I went out with my friends weekly, either to the movies, to a football or basketball game, or just to a friend’s house to hang out. There was always something going on. Hence, when there is only one dance each year, it is a big deal. There are not many healthy options for teenagers and young adults to get together socially in Chuuk, which contributes to many of the social problems. Dance Night was fun and so different from any dance I went to in high school. The students decorated the “gym” with toilet paper, coconut leaves, and a couple balloons. “Dancing” is even somewhat different. Everyone gets a partner for each song and once each song stops, everyone scatters off the dance floor. Many students asked me to be their partners. Even the school’s director, a middle-aged priest, was out on the dance floor with the students. And the students were all for it. There was no grinding i.e. there was ample room for the Holy Spirit. It was fun to see the students so enthused and willing to be involved with the teachers. I appreciated how the students were excited to see us there and encouraged our involvement. I guess we do somewhat play the big brother, big sister roles here since the vast majority of the students are away from their families, but overall it was refreshing. It was the first time I actually got to dance since leaving the states and I have to say that is something I truly miss about American social culture.
Well, before I wrap up I want to share with you some of the exciting news Xavier received recently. The bidding to redo the road that stretches around about 9 miles of Weno went through a couple weeks ago. The project is scheduled to start within the next four months and last about three years. Although the road will start about 1 mile from Xavier, it will be a large benefit to the Weno community- and probably cut the trip downtown in half, as well as increase the lifespan of vehicles here by years. Secondly, a grant through Japan just went through to donate 2/3 of the cost of building a student center at Xavier. The plans include a small computer lab, an office for the Student Senate, a tutoring area, etc. And lastly, a Japanese company has agreed to donate a bus to Xavier. This is excellent news since we rely on 2 buses to drive the girls to and from school each day. Due to the condition of the roads here, the buses we have right now are struggling! They often die and get a flat tire about 50% of the time they are driven.
So things are looking up. Thanks again to everyone who has generously supported me in my work here in Chuuk. I hope everyone back home is enjoying the cold and snow in some capacity. It is still warm and beautiful here....I miss all of and look forward to hearing from you.
Peace.
Steph
Monday, January 5, 2009
Belated Happy Holidays!
Merry Belated Christmas and Happy New Year to all! And a special belated happy birthday to Graham and Kristin! I wanted to be able to send this to you all sooner but the power and internet hadn’t been working in sync with one another and then the laziness of break got to me. We had fairly consistent power in December - a nice holiday gift - but our internet connection was broken. Then once it was fixed, the generator started dieing and the generosity of the island power began to fizzle out. Anyways, I hope everyone had a relaxing and refreshing break. I know I did.
Obviously Christmas was not quite the same this year to be away from home, but in retrospect it was still a great experience. I probably felt the most homesick I have felt since being in Chuuk the week prior to Christmas - cards, emails, photos, and packages from home helped bring smiles to my face, but still can’t replace the feeling of being home around those you love. Thanks to everyone who sent school supplies and other treats. They are all greatly appreciated – not just by me, but everyone here that gets a little taste of home or a little added convenience to trying to educate students. If only you all could have seen the looks on other teachers’ faces when I opened the box with 650 sheets of construction paper- pure awe! Haha…yea, we don’t get out much! So, I know you are all thinking, so what was Christmas in Micronesia anyway?
Well, since I work on a boarding school, not all of the students can afford to go home for Christmas. About 20 boys ended up staying on campus for the break. A couple days before Christmas, a couple teachers went downtown and bought some simple gifts for the boys who were staying so that Christmas away from didn’t feel as bleak and everyone had at least one present under our “Charlie Brown” Christmas tree. We mostly bought practical things such as soap, toothbrushes, razors, sandals, etc., but also so fun things such as cologne, wristbands, and plastic squirt guns. Then with the leftover money we “splurged” and bought pizza for Christmas Eve. Somewhat of an odd Christmas Eve dinner for me - to be eating take-out pizza - but it was a big hit here. If anyone knows me, you know I worked at Papa Johns for 5 years and take-out pizza would probably be the absolute last food, other than maybe seafood, that I would choose to eat for a special meal, but that’s all right. Haha get that- seafood- and I live surrounded by the Pacific Ocean. I can actually eat seafood without wanting to gag now, which is a good feeling when you don’t want to be rude to local people who invite you to share a meal with them and it turns out to be 3 or 4 different types of seafood.
Back to Christmas Eve- then we celebrated midnight mass at 10pm, also a little strange, but closer to former years’ midnight mass, which has been held as early as 7 or 8 pm. Christmas Eve mass struck me. I really enjoyed it, which has not actually happened since I left SLU. I miss SLU mass, not to mention not knowing what is being said makes it difficult to remain attentive or even less so, enthused. It was the first time in longer than I can remember that I didn’t have to arrive 45 minutes in advance to get a seat. I left my room about 10 minutes before 10 and walked to the chapel. I appreciated that the mass was not overly crowded; rather, it felt intimate to me. It actually resembled the typical Sunday crowd, with a couple extras. It still bothers me that I cannot adequately communicate with local people in their native language. I find myself occasionally thinking about how different my experience would be had I been placed in a Latin American country- but that’s apples and oranges now and I realize that thought is not even worth pondering now. It is, however, a constant temptation.
The night before Christmas Eve was the first night that the JV’s from Pohnpei arrived. They brought sakau with them- a traditional drink made from a root and historically drank ceremoniously (and maybe recreationally?). It is essentially a narcotic and has numbing effects. I really don’t know much about it because it is not as popular in Weno, but that if you drink it you must be careful you get it from a reputable source who used clean water to pound it. Plain and simple- it tasted like dirt! I guess that’s what you get for trying to make a drink out of something that grows in the ground. So the Pohnpei JV’s taught us how to drink it- close your eyes while you sip it to avoid the evil spirits from entering your body and pass the cup around in a circular rotation. Generally the village chiefs and guests drink first, followed by the person who pounded it. Historically, it started in Kosrae (another state in the FSM), but was later banned through the influence of religious missionaries, but spread anyway to become popular throughout Micronesia.
On Christmas Day, the whole Xavier community went downtown to the 11am English mass, regularly attended by the Filipinos and Americans on island. After mass, we went to the local prison to sing Christmas carols. While I think that the caroling was done in good spirits it was somewhat awkward. The prisoners came out of their cells and we all gathered under an uut- a local hut made of out of coconut trees. The prisoners sat on one side and we, as in the Xavier community, stood on the other. A couple people sat on benches but there was not enough for everyone, so we were separated by about a 20-foot distance of open space. It felt impersonal and almost anti-justice-y. Not to mention it was only 3 songs and ended with “Santa Claus is coming to town.” Please take a moment and recall those lyrics. This is the scenario- here we are at a prison, looking down towards the prisoners, singing “He knows if you’ve been bad or good so be good for goodness sake.” Irony, anyone? I’m not sure that they actually appreciated our short-lived visit, although the seemed very respectful as they shook our hands as we departed. We also sang at the hospital, but I volunteered to stay at the truck to watch our belongings so I can’t comment on whether or not that situation felt more natural.
On the ride back up to Xavier Christmas afternoon, I hopped out at Penia with Jo, a JV from Pohnpei, and visited my host family. We sat very casually on a local mat with a couple of girls I played volleyball with (and my coach) and their small cousins and “caught up” over orange soda and coffee. It was refreshing – I always find myself feeling at ease when I am with them. It’s a carefree life. Sometimes it is a little awkward because of the communication barrier, but overall I really enjoy it. I love playing with the kids, who usually look at me like I am crazy, speaking to them in either a foreign language or terribly-accented Chuukese. There is this one girl- probably 2 years, who usually only walks around in a diaper (I don’t blame her- it’s hot here). Her name is Deeana and I have tried to play with her on several occasions, but she normally barely responds to me. She is pretty shy and remains physically close to whatever cousin she is with at the time. However, about 2 days ago I went and visited again, and for the first time, Deeana became my new “best friend.” You can imagine what this means for a 2 year old. It means she says my name like a broken record and finds “kapong” (handshakes) and “pounds” to be a fun activity with seemingly no end. I guess this just conveys how much I miss the smiles and silliness of my little cousins.
Christmas night was memorable, also. A couple of the students and Ellen, former JV- now principal, spent literally the whole day in the kitchen cooking up an absolutely delicious Christmas dinner, including turkey, ham, mashed potatoes, stuffing, fruit, broccoli and carrots, cut-out cookies, and brownies. I helped with the mashed potatoes and the cookie cut-outs but you all know how inept I am in the kitchen so the help was short-lived. So there were about 50 of us for dinner. During prayer, I was taken aback shortly. The person saying prayer made a comment about being thankful for and thinking of all of our families that could not be with us at that time, and with the exception of one JV whose Dad was visiting at that moment in time, the nearly 50 people surrounding me were away from their families at that point in time. Why this had not struck me sooner, I don’t know, but finally I felt I wasn’t alone. While everyone seemed cheery on the outside to keep the spirit of Christmas alive, many more people than just I were probably feeling the heartache of not seeing their Mom and Dad, brother and sister, best friend, etc. at that time of year. In that moment, I wanted to make the night as great as I could for the 20 teenage boys around me that already spent so much time away from their families. So post-dinner, the boys opened the gifts that the staff had bought for them. Some staff members exchanged white elephant or small re-gifted gifts. Then the Jesuits had bought the whole school a bunch of board games. This was the best part of the night. The students became so excited and enthused by the games, that within 15 minutes we had a table full learning how the play CLUE - Harry Potter style, another group playing RISK, a duo playing chess with a crowd to watch, another duo playing Connect Four, etc. Not to mention, some of the other staff had set up Karaoke in the kitchen and I’ve never met teenagers that like to sing more than the students here. I sang a couple karaoke songs and then, the fact that I am Steven Osborne’s daughter came out in me, and I played a game of chess against another volunteer. I still have decent chess skills- dad, you might be proud (he he). We actually used to play fairly often when I worked at Fairland so that kept me from getting too rusty. But it was just awesome to see the kids have so much fun and be genuinely so interested in the board games. If I brought those games out to an audience of the same age in America, I think half of them would laugh at me and decline to play. The game playing and singing lasted for over 3 hours- and by then, I was exhausted.
The morning of the 26th, the JV’s from Chuuk and Pohnpei, 2 Peace Corp volunteers, and a volunteer’s dad headed out to Pisar, “the island of moving sands.” It is called Pisar because it can look different every time you go because of the current – it also sits practically right on the reef. This was my second time going to Pisar, but the last time I had gone it had only been for several hours and this trip was going to be three days. Being at Pisar is honestly the most beautiful and relaxing place I have ever been to, although the Sahara Desert ranks close behind. Looking out into the water, you can see 5-7 different shades of ocean water, from deep blues to vibrant turquoises and pale sea foam greens. Pisar is a short walk to the where the open ocean breaks on the reef (or a swimming fight in stronger currents) -making Chaco’s even more valuable out here, a.k.a. perfect reef walkers. Walking on the reef can get kind of tricky and semi-dangerous when the current is stronger because the coral is sharp and can cut you badly if you are not careful or fall. I got a couple small coral cuts, but nothing worth bragging over. The 3 days were set up as our “Winter/Christmas Retreat.” I guess only the Christmas part applies to us. It was a good time to recharge and exchange stories with the Pohnpei JVs, who we had not seem since Aug 4th when we left the states.
There were a couple of highlights during the 3 days. I spotted a huge sting ray (manta ray) when I was snorkeling. Seeing small sting rays isn’t that rare, but this one was probably almost 3 feet wide and at least 5 feet long. Jessie’s dad had an underwater camera and took a picture of it, so hopefully it will turn out well. Then on our last day, I woke up at sunrise to go walk on the reef during low tide and look for ocean gems. At some parts of the reef the water was only about 2-3 inches deep, and at one point, I looked down at my feet and was startled by a slivery-gray, almost translucent eel about 2 inches from my right foot. I jumped quickly and scared the eel away. Apparently the can leave a nasty bite. I also saw some awesome blue starfish, other fish and coral, and found some beautiful cowry shells.
In between Christmas and New Years we had a mini water problem. Since we had not gotten island power in a couple of days and the generator wasn’t working, we had not been able to pump water to our buildings. So this means no water- water to drink, water to wash dishes or your hands with, water to flush toilets with, water to brush your teeth, water to shower with, water to cook with – you get the drift. You turn on the faucet and nothing comes out. The water was sitting in the tanks, but the only way to get it would be to climb inside the tanks and bucket it out and then of course boil it – just slightly inconvenient. So a couple teachers filled a couple trashcans outside to use. Well, I waited until it was sleep time, hoping island power would be a possible savior, but finally gave in to showering rather than even trying to sleep with my post-running sweaty body. I thought it would be easier to just shower outside rather than carry buckets to my room- perfectly acceptable. So it was pitch black because there was no power and a little chilly because of the breeze, but I stood in a skirt pulled up like a tube top dress and showered outside. Low and behold, of course, just as I am finishing, island power turns on all of the lights surrounding me. There I am standing in the grass, soaking wet with a nice soapy film underneath my skirt. I look to my left and I awkwardly wave to the security guard that was now capable of seeing me - I hope you spot the sarcasm - and then retreated back to my room laughing and thinking that this would only happen in Chuuk.
On New Years Eve, I was invited to go out with a couple local people. My friends in Penia had invited me to walk to 10pm Mass with them and then walk back (about 2 miles) in celebration = a.k.a. banging on sheet metal and pots and pans. However, a girl that lives right down the hill from me had also invited me oer. She had asked me several weeks before the New Year and then again the day before so I decided to stay with her. She came up to Xavier to get me at about 10:30pm with her sister. As soon as we got to her house, she asked if she could “style” me. The next thing I knew, my hair was being braided into cornrows, I had 2 or 3-inch purple polka dot hoop earrings in my ears, and a new muumuu. If you know me, you know I would probably never choose to wear 2-3 inch hoop earrings, let alone purple polka dot ones - unless maybe I was dressing up for Halloween or at Mardi Gras. However, I didn’t have a mirror and the power was out while they were “styling” me so I didn’t figure this out until after I got home. The rest of the evening involved a lot of chanting words I don’t understand and banging on sheet metal, followed by LOTS of gift giving. Like 3 hours of gift giving! Here I am, straining to stay awake as what seems like half of the village of Sapuk (about 100 people) are trying to exchange gifts by announcing them one-by-one and dancing in between. It was entertaining since I never seen Chuukese women get so free with themselves and dance as if they are within a dance club, but it just seemed as if the Christmas tree had an endless supply of gifts (much more like a village Christmas celebration than actual Christmas day). Most of the gifts were small, such as a bundle of firewood, a soda, bananas, skirts, coconuts, rice, toilet paper, etc. Some of them were gag gifts like baby dresses for adult women, coconut bras (girls don’t actually wear them here- come on, they can’t even expose their shoulders), etc. I took home 2 coconuts and bananas – probably my two most favorite Micronesian foods.
Okay, so I know I have probably lost a lot of you already, but that was a “brief” look at my break. Yesterday marked my 5th month since I left the states- can you believe it? I think I can. It’s been fast, but still feels like 5 months. Classes start again tomorrow and while I still wish I had break for a couple more days, I’m ready to see the students again. I guess I should go plan my classes now…talk soon.
Peace,
Steph
Monday, December 8, 2008
Xavier Day Ridiculous Fun
Now, here comes Xavier Day. It is a 2-day celebration of the Feast of St. Xavier, including running, basketball, volleyball, coconut husking, basket weaving, arm wrestling, obstacle courses, tug of war, relay races, sprints, a dizzy race, eating contests, etc. (I now have a really cool purse made of coconut leaves thanks to one of my students). It was a lot of fun for the students and me. As I have mentioned before, I really enjoy the opportunities I get to spend time with the students, especially the girls outside of the classroom. My favorite event had to have been the dizzy race. So the scheduled activities were all fun and appropriate, but the events of Friday night (before Day 2) would absolutely not occur anywhere else but at Xavier High School. The boys from different island nations (Palau, Yap, Chuuk, Kosrae, Pohnpei, and the Marshalls) planned to fight each other at multiple times throughout the night in an effort to pump themselves up to be competitive for the continued games on Saturday- literally, violent, physical fights, but staged or fake so that nobody actually got “hurt” (or at least that was the hope). Now, only the freshmen didn’t know that the fights were deliberate so again, the intention of the night was to scare the freshmen and to make them cry. At least that is what resulted from it last year based on what the other volunteers said. Now, don’t you feel like you are at summer camp, because I do! So the fighting started at about dinnertime with banging, screaming, shouting, etc. and continued intermittently for a couple hours. I wonder how long this has actually been a tradition? I know my mind is American, but the whole night I just couldn’t cease to think this would never happen anywhere else and it is only a matter of time until the “tradition” turns out of control and dangerous. I guess that stems from the American mentality that has been ingrained within me the last 22 years. Even better, on Saturday morning all of the girls planned physicals fights to occur on each vehicle. Imagine 8 girls on the back of a pickup and 2 or 3 of them trying to beat each other up also.
While the fighting events were ridiculous in my opinion, all of Saturday’s events were fun and inspiring. While the idea of the day was not foreign to me since I grew up participating in “Field Days” in school, never did I have such a day in high school. It wouldn’t have worked very easily in a school of 1200; however, this notion really got me thinking about how different my upbringing was in a well-to-do American family. The students here absolutely love Xavier Day. They look forward to the next year’s games the day after the games end, they “train” throughout all of the first semester for the relays, and they talk to encourage each other as if participating in Xavier Day is a life or death decision. It’s actually pretty funny to witness. This is what I heard one of my juniors saying on Saturday to his friend that was getting nervous about a race, “Man, you can’t chicken out now. You only have one Xavier day left after this!”
After watching the enthusiasm of the students, I thought about how as I child I was always involved in something that gave me something to work towards. Whether it was ballet or baton, soccer or softball, swimming or gymnastics, or even choir or band, I was always actively involved in activities that inspired me to work towards a goal. The children of Micronesia are not given this gift. Very little to nothing is organized to provide that opportunity or build the skills that come along with participation in such. I always grew up around facilities for such activities. Back home one of the top priorities of schools is maintaining and enhancing its facilities. It is somewhat refreshing to see how resilient the students are and how much can be accomplished without a state of the art field or gym. A little sand laid down for track lines works excellent!
Anyways, I think this is one of the reasons why Xavier Day becomes a very big deal. It is organized, it is competitive, and it is something that most other kids all across Micronesia don’t have. Now, this year in my first few weeks of being in Chuuk, I saw the Sapuk elementary school hold running races. So maybe things are starting to change little by little, but there is a long road ahead. The way people talked about the “Sapuk games” it was the biggest event to occur in the village in a long time. Most of the schools are struggling to minimally function without reliable teachers and functioning facilities (bathrooms, septic systems). And the organized volleyball [and basketball] I had been participating in has since stopped due to escalating violence between men of different villages. The odds seem against community organizing.
But, the Xavier Day events ended with the Senior-Freshmen team beating the Junior-Sophomore team. It was nice to watch the united, happy spirit among the students despite defeat. They all had fun regardless of the winning or losing. The juniors prepared a cheer for the seniors and the whole school joined hands in a circle across the whole field to pray together at the end. A little Jesuit cheer had to come in at some point.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
A New Boil
-Steph
Friday, November 28, 2008
Coconut Wireless Gone Bad and more...
Remember the game telephone we played back in second grade- well, today (now over a month ago…sorry I’ve been busy) in Chuuk was certainly a large-scale game of telephone gone bad. Mid-morning the principal came around to me and said that she had heard a rumor that a tidal wave was headed towards our island and was going to hit about 2:00pm. Even though the rumor came through the local police, she told us she wasn’t sure it was true, but she was looking into it. Apparently rumors like this have been unfounded before. We were instructed not to tell any of the students until we had more information, to remain calm, but to also be aware that we could be preparing for a potential natural disaster…the next 3 hours. We are located on a higher hill of the island, so our own safety was good. We were also told to not be caught off guard if a lot of locals started coming on campus since we are at a relatively high altitude. All in all, being a small speck in the middle of the Pacific amidst a tidal wave leaves you feeling pretty diminutive. Quickly I realized how difficult it is to figure out the “truth” about reality in Chuuk. There is no television, there is no radio, and when the power is off the computers, internet, and even some telephones do not work. Another volunteer that lives at Xavier but works at a school downtown had already been sent home because his school was preparing for the worst. Apparently the downtown was basic chaos as people feared for their families in outer islands of Chuuk (which would get hit worse if there were a tidal wave) and worried for their own safety. People came out and waited on their roofs. As soon as I was finished teaching and the power had turned back on, I hopped back on the internet and tried to look for any posted updates of tidal wave/tsunami threats. I found a website from the US National Weather Service which monitors the Pacific for tidal waves threats. It was 1:52pm and as I waited for the slow broadband to finally load the page, a couple volunteers and I chatted about the recent earthquake in Pakistan and how terrible it would be if this tsunami were real. After a couple minutes, I was calmed to find out they had just updated their site within the hour and no threat was listed.
Now, the question was why were the police yelling through the street to prepare for a tidal wave? It was conveyed as a serious threat, and above all, it came from the police, which you would think is a reliable source. Think again. After more searching on the Internet, another volunteer found committee meeting minutes from the organization that organizes disaster (specifically tsunami) preparedness in the Pacific region. The minutes stated that a drill would be held on October 29, 2008. Ha! So all of that for a stinking drill! Although this incident seemed small in the long run, since nothing really happened other than a lot of people were sent home from their jobs and school and felt scared as they prepared mentally for the possibility of a tsunami, it was striking to me. When I typically think of how developing countries lack materials or resources, I many times think in terms of food and water, housing, clothing, and education. As I spend more time in Chuuk, the extent of the “developing” nature of Chuuk becomes more and more apparent. Systems just don’t exist and the one that became the most apparent to me through this experience was communication. There is no newspaper, there is no local radio, there is no television station, the Internet is unreliable, and apparently so are authorities. While I am not the most loyal newspaper reader or news watcher back in America and listen to the radio mostly for its musical appeal, I have always had the luxury of knowing exactly where to go if I needed immediate information. I have taken this luxury largely for granted. For several hours I felt very powerless- obviously I could not stop an oncoming tsunami- but also because I could not even figure it out if it was true.
One last note on this event- even in Chuuk I was privileged. Xavier’s generator turned on and allowed me to use the Internet. Having a generator, a computer, and an Internet connection (although not always reliable) at my disposal still puts me way ahead the vast majority of Chuukese people. While people downtown waited out the afternoon on their roofs, I sighed when 2:10pm came around. I had realized the ridiculousness of the entire situation.
Ok…now for other info….
I have been able to go off island twice now: once to Tonoas for our fall JVI retreat and once to Parem for the junior retreat- a 3-day experience similar to Kairos, encounter, the junior retreat at GC, etc. Both weekends were really good experiences and nice breaks from Xavier. New settings and freedom from the chaos of the students is always a little refreshing, although I love the students also.
The weekend on Tonoas was planned as an immersion experience with a focus of interfaith dialogue/experience. The island was a Japanese center back in the 1930s and 1940s and holds a lot of history. We were really fortunate to have a local guide- an 82 year-old man named Lucas. He is the living history of the island. He formerly worked for both the Japanese and American navies pre and post-WW2 and watched the island undergo tremendous change, from an economic and social center of Japanese living in the early 1900s to a site of American bombings in WW2 and now to an island with pretty much nothing but inhabitants. One must take a boat into Weno to purchase anything since no established stores exist on the island anymore. This feature brings a specific beauty to the island. It is quiet, peaceful, and the people utilize mostly the natural sustenance of island, such as breadfruit, taro, bananas, coconut, etc. At first glance, it looks largely untainted by western culture.
On our first night we were welcomed with marmars and cold coconuts- the best I have had in Micronesia so far, followed by a FEAST! I mean a feast. There were about 10 of us but probably enough food to feed over 50 people. And it was all local and from what I had- delicious. Now pretty predictably I opted out of the seafood options. However, please be proud of me- I tried sashimi- raw tuna- a week or so ago and it was okay. People crave over it here as a delicacy. The next day we got to tour the island with Lucas. He showed us the remains of a hospital, the best local elementary school -Sino Memorial (pictures soon to come)- and the site of an old school for learning Japanese. Personally, I enjoyed just seeing the villages on the island and listening to Lucas’ stories more than anything. That day concluded with “entertainment,” apparently a pretty typical activity when guests come. The youth of the village got together and sang, danced, and did skits for us. Most of the time I didn’t really know what was going on since a lot of it was in Chuukese but it was still funny. The skits weren’t much of a surprise to some of the returning volunteers since they get recycled over and over again throughout the islands. Some of the returning volunteers would nod their heads once the skits started, “Oh, ok…this one.” It is somewhat funny to me that there’s a “pool” of skits to choose from that you use to entertain guests.
The most memorable moment of the weekend came as we were packing up. We all decided to get a picture sitting on the bench made of coconut wood, looking out into the water of the lagoon. It would be a perfect cap to the weekend. The window of the building we stayed in was at the perfect height to take a timed picture. So a couple of us set up our cameras and quickly ran to jump in the picture. We decided the first one didn’t go as well as planned and one more would be good. So as we all quickly jumped into the second photo, the bench collapsed! Here we are staying as guests at this church in a village of Tonoas where the people have treated us sooo well all weekend and as we are about to leave, we break their bench…Opps! The best part was that since we had 4 or 5 cameras timing the photo, the photos caught all of our reactions at different times. They are hilarious! I include mine in the photos going out soon. Probably everyone in the village heard us scream as well as could see us falling and laughing since we were on the top of the hill. They probably watched us as we desperately tried to rebuild their bench out of broken wood. I guess that’s what happens to wood in a climate that never dries. To say the least, I was blown away by the generosity of the people of Tonoas. They were hosts to us in a way very different than anything I have ever experienced or even thought to do for someone else or another group of people. On top of that, they didn’t get mad at us for breaking their bench.
Last weekend I got to go to Parem- the land of coconut trees- for the junior retreat. It is also the former site of the Japanese landing strip (for planes) during WW2, which is now just a bunch of broken up cement overgrown with coconut trees. Although the weekend was mostly occupied by the activities of the retreat, it also included a good amount of free time- at least enough to go swimming, enjoy the clear beautiful waters, and walk around the whole island. It wasn’t a very big island- small enough to walk around in a fast-paced hour or so. The best part of the weekend was just the opportunity it gave me to get to know and hang out with my students outside of the classroom.
However, it seems I can’t go anywhere without being taken aback by the generosity shown to me by the local people. During my walk around the island, I encountered a man who had just climbed a coconut tree to get down maybe 4 or 5 coconuts. Without any hesitation, as soon as he saw me, he extended his arm to give me a fresh coconut. Of course, I accepted, “Kinisou chapur.” So while I am slowly sipping from the coconut, he machette’d open another for himself. I have drank literally three sips when he threw the husk to the ground. I looked at him in disbelief, “A wes? (you finished).” While I finished about one half of a coconut, he gulped down 3. I would certainly lose at a coconut chugging contest. Once I had returned from the walk, we noticed that a volleyball net was hanging from a tree branch outside of the church. Without expecting the response of the locals, some of the students asked if we could borrow it since we had brought a volleyball but did not have a net. Literally within 5 minutes, the men we had asked had cut down coconut wood and begun digging 2 holes towards the edge of the shore to build a court right before our eyes. Within about 20 minutes we were playing volleyball. I was personally blown away.
I’d like to end the blog with an ode to Thanksgiving. This year, I am so thankful for everyone back home that is thinking of, supporting, and praying for me and for the people of Chuuk. You all are half the reason I am able to be here. It means a lot to know I have that backing. I am more thankful than ever for the 21 years of clean, warm shower water I have grown up with. I continue to hope that the plague of rashes will go away. I am thankful for the enthusiasm, smiles, and “thank-you’s” of my students; they make me realize more and more each day how much I have taken my own education for granted. And I am thankful for the possibility for progress.
Lastly I want to shout out to my family members Chris, Becky, Teresa, Mike, Monica, and Kevin who will all celebrate birthday’s in the next two weeks. HAPPY BIRTHDAY MEDICIN (everyone)!
Hope to hear from everyone soon and keep a lookout for the email of pictures.
Peace.
-Steph
P.S. Several nights ago I saw the largest spider I have ever seen in my life. It was in my room and it took me talking to myself to muster up the courage to kill it. Eventually I did, although I chased it around my room a bit before I was successful. It was bigger than the palm of my hand and I am still freaked out by it. It means they are living in the walls of my house. L I can’t wait for everyone to see the picture of it.
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Something brought me all the way to a small dot in the Pacific...
Typical of myself, going with the wind, I departed from the US on Aug. 4, calm and contained, yet excited and anxious. I’ve almost been in Chuuk for 3 months. Now I am certain that all I have to learn has not yet been presented to me- I may not recognize or piece it all together until even after I leave this place, but there is one thing that I can saying is already brewing inside of me. Growing up, I have repeatedly heard the phrase, “God works in mysterious ways.” And I would say this applies to this. Why did I need to come all the way to Chuuk to learn this about myself? Who knows? Well you are probably wondering what the heck I am talking about by now so I’ll end the suspense.
The last month and a half or so I have been experiencing uncomfortable rashes all over my body. In the last 2 weeks they have been the worst, until about the last couple of days. They are on the tops of my feet, my ankles, calves and thighs, my butt, back, and stomach, my forearms, wrists, and shoulders – you probably are getting the point that they are practically anywhere and everywhere on my body. They itch a lot and are like little red bumps. No it is not heat rash- its suspected to be a bacterial infection. I have been recently treating it with Neosporin and a steroid and they have been improving. However, last week my skin problems culminated with a boil on the back of my upper-upper thigh. It hurt! I was sitting lop-sided-ly to avoid putting pressure on it and walking awkwardly when students weren’t around to watch me. No, I didn’t give up showering when I came here - this is just what happens when you shower with bacteria-filled water and sweat a lot.
Since the beginning of the year, when I started teaching biology and chemistry, I knew that my love for science had been reignited. It was my favorite subject growing up and somewhere during my young adult search for what to do with my life, I somewhat abandoned it. I realized within a couple of weeks of teaching that I really did always like it along the way and wanted to be able to incorporate it more into my future career plans. These feelings, intensified by my frustrations with the poor water situations in developing countries, helped me to realize that I wanted to pursue something related to human health and environmental impacts. Flirting with the idea of medicine (although it would incorporate a lot of science) just didn’t entirely feel right. Besides my 5-year old aspirations to “continue my daddy’s private practice,” the idea of listening to medical tapes about gross bowel problems and looking at nasty photos of diseases has never thrilled me. Overall, I think medicine would be hard for me to be passionate about. With some more thinking – I recalled how my cousin Monica had introduced me to “public health” when I helped out at the office for the Association of Schools of Public Health last winter. Well, thanks Monica, I think you may have planted a seed.
I started researching more in the last month and came across environmental health sciences- a branch of public health. This fits me! I have started researching graduate school programs and while the internet takes forever and the progress is slow- I am getting more and more excited. It seems like a great field that fits all of my interests- I can pick a program based on the amount of science I want. I can apply it to international contexts and it is something that I am passionate about. We cannot have healthy people without healthy environments.
So why did I have to come all the way to Chuuk to connect the dots? Your guess is as good as mine. I guess I am hard-headed. I figure that if I start researching schools now I am on schedule. It’s this time next year that I would need to apply- and well the progress is pretty slow with the resources here (and you know me- this of course is not written in stone).
As for me being in Chuuk, there are still a lot of unanswered questions. And that's okay for now.
Anyways- enough about my future-
This past weekend was the “Girls’ Gathering” at Xavier. So on Friday, all of the girls stayed on campus inside of driving back to their host families. They spent the night, didn’t sleep, ate lots of junk food, and picnicked on Saturday. It was a great opportunity for them to spend time with each other and bond, but oh so hilarious to witness. Maybe I am being biased and choosing not to recall how silly I actually was when I was 13-17, but it was certainly entertaining.
The night started with a game similar to what we Americans know as Truth or Dare. The girls persuaded me to play and the way it worked was that everyone sat in a circle and passed a bottle. This part was like hot potato. If you were holding the bottle when the music stopped playing, you had to pick a piece of paper out of a bag that either had a truth or a dare. Well, of course they rigged it to stop on me. So when I picked my paper, it read, “Which senior boy do you think likes you and why?” I laughed and said I couldn’t answer it. I read two words and the girls screamed so hard that I had to stop to be heard. They were so excited and thought I could actually reasonably answer the question. Then I said I have a joke with a male staff member – we have a love/hate relationship. They asked what I liked most about him and I said his jaw line (what, who looks at jaw lines? But it was an easy way for them to leave me alone without really saying much) And of course they all screamed with excitement. The next day a couple of them asked me if it was really true and I confidently said, “No, it was a joke.” Their looks of disappointment were so big, as if I could actually share dark, juicy, personal secrets of mine with them (not that I have many dark, juicy, personal secrets anyway). Then they smiled and I explained how answering that question honestly would be unprofessional and weird, similar to them choosing what 10 year-old child they babysat for had a crush on them, in front of the children themselves. Then they understood and were still happy I played.
There were more funny events of the weekend that just left me laughing, but those will be saved for a later conversation (for what happens at girl’s gathering is pretty much top secret out here in Weno- or at least they like to tell everyone that even though all the boys somehow find out the next morning). The picnic the next day by the beach was nice and sunny. Several girls pitched in money to rent a canoe for the day so that turned into a constant-lets-see-who-we-can-tip-off-the-canoe game. Once lunch came out, the girls started to have a huge icing fight with the cake so half the cake’s icing went to the girls’ faces. It amazed me that most of them didn’t care at all. Many didn’t even bother to wipe it off and just play volleyball for an hour or two with icing smeared all over their faces.
The month of November should be pretty busy. Things on the agenda: This weekend I am going off-island (hooray, my first break from Weno) to Tolowas for a JV retreat. Then, in 2 weekends, the Xavier Staff retreat will be on-island, but at Blue Lagoon (about an hours drive from Xavier on the other side of the island by the nice beaches). The weekend following, I will help chaperone/lead the Junior Retreat. I’m excited for it because it is always nice to be able to get to know the students in a non-academic setting. Then the last week, Katie and Josh’s families will be visiting, as well as it will be Thanksgiving. Woah! That’s a lot. So if you don’t hear from me, I’ll catch up more in December.
As for this week, the Juniors are supposed to put together a “Haunted Hallway.” We’ll see how it goes. Happy early birthday to Jenn! Talk soon.
-Steph